Le Boeuf Volant

The beef here really does have wings – it’s flown in from the US, Bavaria, Australia and Spain, and its labels read ‘Black Angus’ or ‘Simmenthal’. In a little corner of Batignolles,  you’ll find a doorway crowned with a pair of horns that opens onto a pretty, chic little restaurant, all hanging lamps, stained glass, vintage crockery and plain wooden furniture, hinting strongly at a modern New York steak house. The cosy feel is only emphasised by the small number of seats and the open kitchen (luckily the extractor fan is fully functional) – a dimly-lit, welcoming place.

And the beef, the first class foreign cuts? Some of the versions are unusual – ‘tomahawk’ instead of the more classic ‘côte de boeuf’, and there’s ‘chuck flap’ and ‘dry aged’ and so on. No doubt this is the good stuff, despite its carbon footprint. The hand cut chips, creamy mash or sweet macaroni and cheese that come with it are also top notch. Extras are things like fried eggs, black pudding or stewed aubergine, and the cosmopolitan wine list covers Italy, Argentina and Spain.