Le 21

This clubby restaurant in St-Germain-des-Prés is a big hit with a beau monde crowd of antiques dealers, book editors and politicians. Chef Paul Minchelli's original minimalist style has evolved towards more homely preparations, as seen in adelicious sauté of flaked cod, potatoes, onions and green peppers, or squid in a squid ink sauce with black rice. To keep the waistline-watching regulars happy, a few of his old classics are also still offered, including grilled red mullet. Don't miss the chocolate fondant cake for dessert, and don't be shy about asking for help with the pricey wine list.