L'Atelier Rodier (CLOSED)

Hiding discreetly behind a sombre façade in a charming corner of the 9e, l’Atelier Rodier is more for the discerning aficionado of creative cuisine than for the tourists. You come here to broaden your culinary horizons, not to stuff yourself. The muted aesthetic continues indoors, where wooden tables sit among tasteful silver-plated walls and the odd contemporary painting. The thoughtful presentation extends to the food itself - the Colombian chef Santiago serves up a series of seafood dishes that look almost as if they have been painted onto the plate with a fine brush.

We begin with cuttlefish tagliatelle and shellfish seasoned with estragon, before moving onto the pièce de résistance: a delectable salmon dish accompanied by balsamic dressing and onion purée (starters and dishes both range from €13 to €21). Having run the gamut of fine flavours in a short space of time, our taste buds recover in time to sample the intriguing pistachio and lavender cake. By the time Santiago’s escorting us to the door, our minds are made up: we’ll be back before long to try out the rest of the menu.