L'Atelier Ramey

The area around the Rue Ramey is the standard-bearer for the on-the-up 18th arrondissement, proud of its character and becoming more and more audacious. The proof, if we needed it, is in Atelier Ramey, opened by chef Nicolas Boissière and his companion Dani Maini. Embracing the trend for industrial décor with its exposed brick walls, there's also a more intimate attention to detail – like with the interesting wine cellar downstairs.

At lunch, there's an affordable set menu for €19, while in the evenings there's a tasting menu only – €32 for amuse-bouche, starter, main and dessert – which changes according to what's available and the humeur du chef. On our visit, this began well, with a small, garlicky bowl of cauliflower velouté, scattered with Comté, croutons and coriander. Then a lovely slow-cooked egg ('oeuf parfait') with sweet pepper confit, rocket, butter and rosemary. Mains included an unmissable pan-fried boudin noir terrine flanked by a celery remoulade with horseradish, and a sublimely tender filet of wagyu beef surrounded by new potatoes and mushroom fricassee. No flavour faults here, and the service is charming and warm.