La Tour de Montlhéry (Chez Denise)

At the stroke of midnight, this place is packed, jovial and hungry. Savoury traditional dishes, washed down by litres of the house Brouilly, are the order of the day. Les Halles was the city's wholesale food market, and game, beef and offal still rule here. Diners devour towering rib steaks served with marrow and a heaped platter of chips, among the best in town. Brave souls can also try tripes au calvados, grilled andouillette, or perhaps go for a stewed venison, served with celery root and home-made jam.