La Cevicheria

If the menu here is exclusively ceviche, that hugely fashionable Peruvian speciality, it still manages holds your interest. The range of flavours and ingredients changes daily, depending on what come out of that morning’s catch, fresh from the sea. When we visited at the end of August, we were delighted by a scallop ceviche with passion fruit, jazzed up chilli, coriander and lime, and another of whiting and heirloom peaches with red onions and fresh mint. They go perfectly with a refreshing bottle of white wine (from €22) and a leisurely lunch. In autumn, the menu might feature things like sea bream ceviche with sweet potato, leche de pantera Peruvian fish stock, celery and whipped corn, or smoked haddock, pomegranate, chives and vitelotte purple potatoes. Side dishes to balance out all these strong flavours might be mashed potato or sweet potato with cheddar fondue, quinoa salad, rice or split peas (around €5 each). With fresh products, bang-on flavour combinations and carefully executed recipes, a warm welcome, efficient service and pretty décor, everything here is designed to please. Just watch the prices, unless you’re taking advantage of the set lunch menu at €16.