La Cerisaie

Nothing about La Cerisaie's unprepossessing red façade hints at the talent that lurks inside. With a simple starter of white asparagus served with preserved lemon and drizzled with bright green parsley oil, chef Cyril Lalanne proves his ability to select and prepare the finest produce. On the daily changing blackboard menu you might find bourride de maquereau, a thrifty take on the garlicky southern French fish stew, or cochon noir de Bigorre, an ancient breed of pig that puts ordinary pork to shame. Baba à l'armagnac, a variation on the usual rum cake, comes with stunningly good chantilly.