Ramen, gyoza, pizza and organic wine: this little covered passage has become the gastronomic epicentre of Grands Boulevards. So it makes sense thatEmmanuel Raichvarg has put down roots here for his third Thai restaurant, after Kapunka and Monsieur K. It’s not the best placed spot in the passage, with its impersonal rows of tables, and is far too noisy at lunchtime.
The highlights? Pad thaï of course, complete with fried noodles and that distinctive sweet-sour sauce – choose from vegetarian, prawn, beef chicken or mixed (prawns and chicken). There is plenty of texture and crunch to the copious melange; a plate of noodles, piled high with beansprouts and a little bowl of lemon wedges, chilli powder and peanuts for sprinkling.
There’s thai curry too, but our vegetarian green curry included a rouge piece of chicken. Argh. Luckily we’re not total purists and are easily coaxed to the carniverous side so there was no harm. Forgiveness was served in the form of dessert: a sticky, comforting coconut and banana tapioca pudding.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE