For a restaurant founded by a man the New York Times dubbed the ‘wizard of offal’, it’s initially disappointing that Glou keeps it’s tongue (and it’s heart, testicles and other offcuts) in cheek and off the menu. Instead this charming Marais bistro from ex food writer Julien Fouin – author of 'Beurk! C’est Bon' / 'Yuck! It’s Good' – plays things straight and pan-continental with Spanish meat boards, subtle pasta dishes and bold French desserts.
Our experience was that of an upward curve. Things started with a solid if unextraordinary smoked duck stuffed with foie gras – aided by punchy grapefruit chutney, but hamstrung by curiously burnt toast – before stepping up with a seasonal cep ravioli, the woody fungus and delicate pasta combining to evoke warm autumnal memories. It was dessert that really dazzled though – a crispy chocolate and praliné tartlet with a glass of ‘Sugar Baby Love’, a sweet little wine that butted up exquisitely against the bitter chocolate.
As good as the food is, this isn’t the kind place where people reverentially savour what is offered to them with quiet awe. It’s a ‘food with friends’ affair and with a distinguished wine list, openhearted staff and a communal table that reverberates with the laughter of Marais hipsters, Glou has a habit of creating evenings that stick in the memory banks.