That humble British classic fish ‘n’ chips is getting the royal treatment on both sides of the channel, riding the current wave of enthusiasm for gourmet versions of comfort food (see Paris’s already popular Sunken Chip, Fich and BOL Porridge Bar). At George (named, intriguingly, for both George Harrison and George Michael, whose portraits hang in the dining room), top quality fish is dispatched daily from the Rungis market, ready for filleting in the kitchen and frying in the finest batter. The small space – just a few tables and a little bar next to the kitchen – has a line out of the door at lunchtime, and with good reason. Classic cod and chips comes with mushy peas lifted with mint, house tartare sauce and bang-on chips, or you can go fancy and order a hake burger with aubergine, coriander, melted mozzarella and spiced red pesto – perhaps one of the best fish burgers in the city. There are also beef burgers with bacon and cheese for meatier palates. Desserts don’t let the side down, with things like chocolate, caramel and hazelnut brownie turning the whole idea of a fast food fish lunch into a properly satisfying meal.
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