Encore (CLOSED)

An autumn 2013 opening, this ‘neo-bistro’ is all about capturing the current restaurant zeitgeist – even its name, perhaps, is a wink to the trend-savvy Paris food world, and the décor – all bare brick, wooden tables and industrial metal shelving. There are two set evening menus to choose from, no à la carte – five courses for €48 or 8 for €75 with a choice of meat or fish options, and a good wine list that comes with plenty of helpful advice fom the waiters. We started with an amuse-bouche of figs, foie gras and flowers, which was followed by medium rare veal with slices of fennel, then a piece of pollock with spinach sauce topped with fine strips of raw radish and an oyster foam. The compositions are surprising and there’s a real Japanese influence in the vegetable-heavy plates thanks to chef Yoshi Morie, who previously worked with Hide Ishizuka at Petit Verdot. The courses elaborate on an ingredient theme, which can get a shade monotonous, but desserts were delightful; a zabaglione with kirsch and chocolate ice cream, and a coconut mousse with meringue floating on a pool of marigold syrup.