Derrière restaurant on the edge of Paris’ Marais district is a clandestine restaurant that is one of the hottest meals in town. First, locate the unmarked door between the 404 restaurant and Andy Wahloo that leads into a courtyard and from there into eccentric Derrière. Dining at Derrière is like dining in a restaurant and also in a friend’s boho-chic home. You choose if you’d like to sit in the living room with the live ping-pong table, the bedroom with the mosaic mirrored ceiling where you’ll sit on the edge of the mattress, the screening room den or a host of other apartment-like chambers. If you fancy a fag break, find your way through the mirrored wardrobe into the off-the-record fumoir – very cool. Chef Lionel Delage brings real French culinary nous to his menu of modern French cuisine that features lots of salads and dishes like slow-simmer beef cheek bourguignon. Great wines and service and truly great scene.
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