Nostalgia has been big on the Paris restaurant scene in recent decades, with the emergence of the bistronomy trend in the 2000s and, more recently, the revival of traditional bouillon-style restaurants. But now, there’s a new retro trend taking over: the neighbourhood rade, or bar.
Spots like Blainville and Orillon were already firm favourites, and now along comes Cornichon, tucked under the shadow of the Saint-Joseph-des-Nations church on Rue Saint-Maur. Friends Paul Henri (front of house) and Bertrand Chauveau (in the kitchen, formerly of David Toutain in the 7th arrondissement) are going all-in to replicate the feel of a 1970s-era Parisian dive: a pinball machine, a wavy neon light fitting above the stainless steel bar, and even a lottery counter (though do residents of the 11th arrondissement really play the lottery? We’re not convinced).
What stands out is their clever take on the traditional weekly menu concept at an affordable price (€22 for the full experience). Simple dish titles (grated carrots, spaghetti and meatballs…) give way to surprisingly refined plates, like creamy, garlicky cucumbers; tender beef cheek beneath a mound of crunchy green beans topped with smoked herring cream; and a crème caramel finished with vanilla oil. In the evenings, the place switches gears with a tapas-style offering – duck heart skewers, fries cooked in beef fat, chicken liver terrine, and more. Beyond the retro decor, it’s a delightful spot for dining.
At Time Out, all venues are reviewed anonymously by journalists, who pay the bill every time, just like any other customer!
Translated by Olivia Simpson