With its slightly wobbly bistro chairs and old classroom tables, Chez Hipolène does not pretend to be the new ‘place to be’. The cuisine is simple and the menu depends on seasonal produce and the whims of the chef, Camille. The sea bream carpaccio, seasoned with lime and served with sliced fennel, nuts and roasted sesame seeds (€8), is fresh and invigorating. We pick a Biolégère beer from the Brasserie Dupont (€3.50), but there’s also a short and punchy selection of natural wines between €4 and €6.
To warm us up, a beautiful cut of pork shoulder simmered with bulgur wheat and chestnuts (€15), with a rich fat which melts lightly into a broth. It feels just like home. If only we were served this every Sunday.
TRANSLATION: MEGAN CARNEGIE