Atelier Vivanda (CLOSED)

Barbecue specialist Atelier Vivanda is all about meat – and potatoes. Set in a little room with just 30 places, it gets so full that every inch of space is maximised ­– even the clock is hung from the ceiling. The décor mixes rustic and modern: wooden tables sport integrated knife holders beneath elegant spotlights, while the walls are festooned with pictures of cows. 

The kitchen is open onto the dining room, with a view over the grills and smoking meats, making you wonder how you’re going to smell after dinner (hint: like barbecue). Menu-wise, you’d be wise to follow the crowd and stick to the starter-main-dessert formula at €35, as à la carte is much more expensive. Starters include lentil salad with smoked haddock with garlicky croutons, nuts and rocket, and a duck terrine with cabbage. Mains of burgers, beef and more are enormous and full of flavour, and desserts also deliver with things like floating islands with caramel ice cream and apple compote, chocolate and caramel tart, and banana, mango and passion fruit sorbet. 

Overall, the simple, generous, well-priced dishes work, and the cheery bistro atmosphere make Atelier Vivanda a winner.

TRANSLATION: ELLEN HARDY