American Kitchen (CLOSED)

Opposite the Hôpital Saint-Louis, a handful of restaurants cluster in a charming collective that’s well-known to residents and regulars of the 10th. Among the bouquet of enticing smells, the red frontage of the American Kitchen is a favourite with hungry passers-by. On the tables of its vast terrace, pots of ketchup and mustard are the welcome signs of cones of fries to come. Inside, there are no pink faux leather booths, no neon lights and no waitresses on roller skates – of which clichés only the latter might be mourned. A tricolor flag and a few all-American stars integrate well with the industrial décor, mixed with metal lamps and woven bistro chairs.

The portion sizes can be eye-popping, so be prepared to share – good thing too, as it’s not cheap (€10 a starter, €15 a burger, €8 a dessert). And don’t expect great things from the house fries – hold out, instead, for the steaks, the brioche buns like small mushrooms, the burgers and the warm bagels. Unusually for a burger joint, vegetables also get star treatment: take the vegetarian crostini, made from thick slices of black bread, mozzarella, peppers, courgettes and aubergines. For dessert, try the creamy carrot cake or the traditional brownies. And to wash it all down: a great Californian wine.