Le Garde-Temps

Le Garde-Temps isn’t exactly the ideal address for a romantic dinner, with tables lined up closely on either side of the small single dining room with its fashionable New York décor. But if it doesn’t bother you to shout over your neighbours to be heard, then ambiance suits the venue, with polite, unfussy service and dishes firmly oriented towards the southwest without being slaves to tradition.

The menu starts with things like mullet tartare marinated in Espelette pepper with a chorizo and mustard sprout sauce, or parsnip mousseline with carrots, Chioggia beetroot and chunks of parmesan. Then the mains (perhap scallops, or a Black Angus beef onglet with huge hand-cut chips), which are priced extraordinarily well for the amount of care taken on the plate: the colourful modern presentation and top quality ingredients are a very pleaant surprise, especially when many places will charge the same price (around €14) for a merely passable hamburger. Though perhaps you wouldn’t expect less from a chef who has previously worked at Grand Pan and Comptoir du Relais.

Desserts are slightly less even – go for the lemon mousse rather than a watery dark chocolate fondant with mascarpone and Arabica coffee – but overall the quality and value for money is such that this restaurant comes highly recommended.