Buttes-Chaumont
© Page Light Studios / Shutterstock.com
© Page Light Studios / Shutterstock.com

Buttes-Chaumont: the ultimate area guide for 2025

The top things to eat, drink and do in this leafy, hilly and very chilled-out neighbourhood

Alix Leridon
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Tucked somewhere between Belleville, La Villette and the 19th district, Buttes-Chaumont is forever climbing the ranks of what’s good and beautiful in Paris. With cascading parks – from Buttes-Chaumont to Butte-du-Chapeau-Rouge – a string of canals, and sprawling cultural hubs like Le 104 and Parc de la Villette, the city’s northeast is a surprising but brilliant mix of laid-back vibes and artistic energy.

Here, you’re not in the midst of buzzy, tourist Paris. Instead you’re interspersed with locals doing their day-to-day, seeking a little bit of peace (and greenery) in Paris. And that means you won’t find great hotels here either – you’re better off booking an Airbnb or staying nearby. But add in standout restaurants, plus some of the city’s best new bars and clubs, and you’ve got a neighbourhood that’s well worth basing yourself in for the weekend. Here are our top picks in the Buttes-Chaumont neighbourhood. 

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Alix Leridon is a journalist at Time Out Paris. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines. This guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines.

What to do in Buttes-Chaumont

  • Wine bars
  • Buttes-Chaumont
  • price 2 of 4
  • 5 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended

A laid-back, leafy bar tucked inside a little house at the top of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, where you sip your apéro beneath towering trees, soaking up the last rays of sun and taking in a truly stunning view. On Sundays, it’s the go-to gay (and totally hetero-friendly) hangout. No surprise there – owner Michelle Cassaro, aka Mimi, used to run the legendary lesbian club Pulp, which closed back in 2007. The only catch? Rosa Bonheur gets absolutely packed every summer. Security barriers are set up to manage the overflowing terrace crowd, and from apéro time, bouncers keep an eye out for queue-jumpers. But people aren’t just here for the setting – Rosa is where it’s at.

Address: 2 Allée de la Cascade, 75019 Paris

2. Buttes snack-bar

Launched in summer 2023 by a well-oiled trio of mates, Buttes hit the ground running. In the dining room, Pierre Forest and Benoît Baud have built a hefty, natural-leaning wine list with some real gems – like the juicy 2021 Nouvelle Lune red from Alsace (€37) or a zesty 2019 Müller-Thurgau from Czech winemaker Milan Nestarec (€45). The kitchen, run by Clément Vezat (ex-Bambino), dishes out bold, sharply executed small plates from a central open setup. Expect retro-style Limoges plates bearing things like herring with pickles and spicy sauerkraut – punchy, herbaceous and perfect with a glass of bright 2022 Chenin from La Grange de Nouméa (€6.50). Long story short: Buttes is a total knockout.

Address: 10 Rue Pradier, 75019 Paris

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  • Attractions
  • Parks and gardens
  • Buttes-Chaumont
  • Recommended

Far from the tourist trail, Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is a hidden gem Parisians would rather keep to themselves. Tucked away in this increasingly trendy neighbourhood, this lush patch of green has winding paths, sloping lawns, jagged rocks and faux grottos circling a lake – as well as, of course, the magnificent Temple de la Sibylle, perched on an 89-metre cliff. What to do here? Stretch out in the grass for a lazy nap. Picnic with cheese, saucisson a cup of lukewarm rosé. Above all, make your way to the brilliant Rosa Bonheur, tucked into a little house at the top of the park.

Address: 1 Rue Botzaris, 75019 Paris

4. Honorati

This pistachio-green deli is run by Italian food-obsessed duo Francesca Borrelli and Alessandro De Palma, who have carefully curated a top-tier selection from across the Boot, including an exclusive-in-France Le Ferre olive oil from Castellaneta. Honorati’s deli counter is packed with the best of the best – like delicately spiced capocollo from Puglia and next-level pancetta. Francesca also whips up some knockout focaccias topped with confit tomatoes and ribbons of ham, or indulgent mushroom and truffle lasagnes. Yes, it’s pricey – but with this kind of quality, it’s worth every cent.

Address: Honorati, 14 Rue Clavel, 75019 Paris

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5. Babel

Buttes-Chaumont isn’t really a hotel spot – you’d be better off booking an Airbnb in this neighbourhood. But a few minutes down the road, Babel Belleville will do the trick. Tucked away on a leafy backstreet, Babel is the kind of hotel that feels a bit like staying at your cool friend’s flat than a hotel. There’s a ground-floor restaurant serving Levantine-inspired small plates, and the vibe is young, friendly and minimalist. Once you’ve had a day out in Buttes-Chaumont, saunter five minutes down the road for a wine and a recoup back at your hotel room. 

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