Though it’s run by the comedian Tetsuji from the Osaka-based manzai duo Shampoo Hat, tsukemen eatery Miyata Menji is dead serious about its noodles. The shop offers a choice from two signature varieties of noods and one rotating special to go with its much-vaunted veggie potage soup, a rich concoction reminiscent of vichyssoise but with a seafood umami kick.
The first signature noodle is the Wheat Daiginjo, so named because about half of the outer layers of the grain used for the noodles is polished away – as is done with rice in the making of daiginjo sake – to achieve a brilliantly clear flavour. Further mixing this polished wheat with bran lets the noodle-makers achieve a notably elastic but still airy mouthfeel that’s quite unlike anything we’ve tasted before.
Menji’s other regular kind of noodle is the Wheat Espresso, the result of mixing a variety of whole-grain flours in search of a kick to rival a nice strong cup of Italian coffee. Deep brown in colour and with a rich aroma, these extra-thick noodles may not quite produce the ‘wow’ factor of the Wheat Daiginjo, but are well worth savouring on the side as part of a two-noodle set (which will only set you back an extra ¥200).
Lemon juice and black pepper are available at all tables to sprinkle on your noodles as desired. Note that the shop closes early if they run out of noodles and/or soup.