In Osaka, a city famous for its intense flavours, finding food that’s both filling and gentle on the palate can be a challenge. As far as healing meals go, many locals swear by Osaka-style udon, a bowl of flat, soft noodles served in a slightly sweet broth. One of the best examples of this simple but satisfying dish can be savoured at Furusato in Tanimachi-Kyuchome, an area known locally as Tanikyu.
Having started out as a food stall, the eatery has been in business for half a century and the interior looks like it’s barely changed since the smokiest days of the Showa era. Though time may seem to stand still at Furusato, the staff certainly don’t – the restaurant takes pride in lightning-fast service tailored to Osaka’s famously impatient population. If you take your time picking from the bits and rolls of sushi (from ¥350) lined up in the showcase by the counter, you’re likely to find your bowl of udon ready and waiting when you take a seat.
But no matter how hurried it all may seem, you’ll be hard pressed not to feel relaxed when the dashi, prepared fresh every morning, soaks into your body. Besides classics like kitsune udon (topped with fried tofu and naruto fish cakes; ¥800), the menu lists seasonal specials such as the summer-only cold soba katsu (¥1,200) and winter’s innard-warming hamaguri clam udon (around ¥1,500)
Remarkably, Furusato stays open 24 hours a day, 364 days a year (their lone holiday is New Year’s Day). Visit in the morning and you’ll be rubbing shoulders with both suit-clad businesspeople grabbing breakfast and students recharging after a long night of partying. As the owner says, ‘I think it’s important to stay open so that we can welcome customers at any time’. Now that’s dedication.