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The heart of this neighborly Chinatown is its two groceries, which ring Clement Clarke Moore Homestead Park at Broadway. However, the well-known and beloved Hong Kong Supermarket chain is outdone by this sprawling megastore, stocked with everything from live eels to steamed buns. In addition to any Pan-Asian pantry item, produce or kitchen tool you could ponder, there are beautiful fish (luscious sea bass, $13.99 per pound), tubs of pickled vegetables, sushi, and takeout for ultracheap dinners or snacks, like Chinese-sausage-packed sticky rice ($1.25).