Taking over the family business in 1954, 90-year-old Moe Albanese still presides over the butcher block at this Italian throwback. Step through the red-painted brick entryway to find Albanese, who bills himself as the "last butcher in Little Italy," carefully breaking down and trimming veal at the small counter. The modest meat case is stocked mainly with poultry and beef cuts like porterhouse.
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