In Jackson Heights, under the rumbling train tracks of the elevated
7 line, dwells New York’s first restaurant devoted to the modest and fiery cuisine of Isaan, the northeastern region of Thailand. The menu also lists plenty of standard dishes, such as pad thai and coconut curries, which are less sweet than most versions, thanks to the use of a house-made curry paste. Unique to Isaan are some unusual salads including one of ground catfish in which bits of dried chilies fleck the salty fish. Exhilarating but uncomplicated tom yum features exceptionally plump shrimp and enough murky, delicious hot-and-sour broth to feed three.