Yuji Ramen

For years, seafood salesman Yuji Haraguchi supplied pristine specimens to the city's top eateries (Per Se, Marea) through True World Food. But the Japanese native dreamed of bringing a hot new style of Tokyo ramen—mazemen, a dry "mixed" version served without broth—to New York. Working his food-world connections, Haraguchi found support at Roberta's, where co-owner Carlo Mirarchi let him test out his noodles in the kitchen after-hours, and another partner, Brandon Hoy, hooked him up with the crew at café-bar Kinfolk Studios, who were looking for pop-up projects. The seasonal menu changes often, but recently Haraguchi served his curly ramen noodles, made by a friend in Los Angeles, topped with uni, miso, and a julienne of nori and shiso for one dish; and spicy tuna, chili flakes and pickled cucumbers for another.