Yuba

Former Masa chefs George Ruan and Jack Wei open a modern Japanese restaurant that bears the minimalist look of their former employer, with food at a price point mere mortals can swing. The 36-seat sanctuary, outfitted in walnut wood and paper lanterns, keeps the focus trained on a handsome bar in back, where the sushi and sashimi is prepared. Hot and cold plates, like dashi-poached lobster tails and grilled maitake mushrooms with truffle oil, round out the menu, and yuba—the bean curd skin for which the place is named—finds its way into a few items, including shrimp dumplings.