Bolun Yao's fondest memories of his grandmother revolve around food. He keeps her spirit alive at his Hell's Kitchen restaurant. Shepherded by chef Jakub Baster—formerly of Daniel and France's La Dame de Pic—Yingtao's fine fare reinterprets traditional regional flavors through a Western lens, best experienced through the eight-course tasting menu. But, if you only have a bit of time and money to spare, park it at the bar and order a few tastes. Our recs? The Congee and the Nian Gao are musts.
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