Won Jo

The appeal of this huge K-town joint is simple: The food is first-class. What reads on the menu like a basic sautéed fish is actually a plateful of meaty morsels of mackerel in a peppery soy sauce. Intensely spicy yuk gae jang is laden with thin slices of tender beef, seaweed and cellophane noodles. Other standards are solid, such as pajun (savory pancakes), kalbi (braised short ribs) and mandoo (dumplings). Explore the daunting zillion-page menu and you’ll likely find more treasures.