Williamsburgh Cafe (CLOSED)

Although that extra h in the name refers to the old spelling of the neighborhood, this restaurant fits right in with today’s happening Billyburg. The eatery is three places in one: an unassuming café, a bar area (where the bartender’s band plays on Tuesday nights, natch) and a massive “indoor backyard garden,” from which diners can watch the chef at work. They’ll witness unlikely marriages such as flounder with fruity jalapeño sauce, or scallops with cocoa crème fraîche and Tahitian vanilla bean lobster sauce. The menu traverses a variety of themes: sushi-grade fish, panini, wood-oven pizzas and ever-beguiling sweet-potato fries. The Southern-style brunch offers live jazz, free pastries and a complimentary cocktail.