We sometimes want to relive our childhoods through food, but we now have adult taste buds to please. Owner-cook Jay Strauss resolves the conflict with his brand of designer school-cafeteria food. Westville makes a great hot dog; the juicy, beefy Niman Ranch wiener comes on a bun that’s got body. Indulgent favorites (crab-packed crab cakes, BLTs with thick bacon) share menu space with satisfying salads (often made with organic greens). A blackboard heralds the day’s fresh vegetable sides—$12 will get you four. Friendly-but-harried servers might mix up your order, but they’ll also let you linger over mind-blowing butterscotch pudding.
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