Photographs: Marlene Rounds
Upon visiting Watty & Meg, we can report that this comely restaurant is a seamless addition to the Cobble Hill dining scene. That’s not exactly a compliment. With few exceptions, the area’s eateries are famously mediocre. The corner locale, packed since it opened, drips with the kind of voguish vintage detail for which restaurants like Allen & Delancey are adored: ornate tenement-style tiles, ceilings plastered with floral wallpaper, and all manner of knickknacks. But the allure ends there. The Southern-influenced menu from Virginian chef Sosie Hublitz is light on assertive flavors—baffling, as the South isn’t exactly known for its culinary subtleties. Seared scallops lacked that tantalizing golden crust, and came with a cloying medley of accoutrements: leeks, almonds, peas, sunchoke and apple with a sticky demi-glace. A spa-foody salad trio of curried quinoa, overdressed kale and a fan of avocado slices was puzzlingly out of step with the down-home menu. Less virtuous, but no more appealing, was an entre of shrimp and grits. The crustaceans arrived atop a mound of flat-tasting Havarti porridge—the cheese added a creamy texture and plenty of calories but not much flavor. And while a good burger can redeem even a second-rate neighborhood joint, Watty’s dry and bland puck, hidden inside an overlarge kaiser bun, gives grass-fed beef a bad name. We were impressed to see a vegan option on the dessert menu, but the bittersweet, tofu-based chocolate mousse was served with a scoop of dairy ice cream (huh?). It’s just that sort of ditzy faux pas that makes this place yet another South Brooklyn disappointment. Cobble Hill locals, don’t hold your breath.