Waldy’s Woodfired Pizza and Penne

After receiving heaps of praise for his thin-crust pizzas at Beacon, chef Waldy Malouf opened this 15-seat pizza parlor to properly showcase his beloved pies. We can confirm that his shop is sending out the same quality specimens, which arrive on long boards right out of a massive wood-burning oven. But we’re not sure you’ll want to hang around to enjoy them: The place feels like a Cosi sandwich shop inside. It’s located on a desolate block in the garment district; salads come in black take-away ramekins (even if you’re eating in); and the lighting is so bright that it almost highlights every bead of sweat on the guys shelling pies in and out of the oven’s fiery maw. Nevertheless, the beer is cold (a Brooklyn Brewery pilsner and pale ale are available on tap) and the pizzas are naturally tasty; a thin base is by turns crisp and chewy, and loaded with organic ingredients like braised lamb, proscuitto and sunny-side-up eggs. Our favorite was the white pie, slathered with snowy white ricotta and generously sprinkled with crunchy breadcrumbs and clams. Your best option is to scarf one down at the long counter in front or pick up a pie to go.