Upstairs at '21’

The small, elegant, mural-lined dining room on the second floor of ‘21’ feels like a club within a club, with a much more grown-up vibe than the venerable first-floor barroom. The $70 three-course prix fixe is also a little more adult. A light tomato bisque has a rich, concentrated tomato flavor and pleasant acidity; an oversize crab cake is laden with large lumps of sweet meat. One night, the mixed grill included baby lamb chops, duck sausage, bacon-wrapped venison and a pheasant, squab and foie gras “sandwich.” If you ask early enough in the evening, you may be able to wangle a tour of the vast wine cellar; you’ll be reminded of how huge it is when you try to pick up the phone-book-size wine list.