Two Steps Down

Not much has changed at this family-run restaurant during the past three decades. The place was has been remodeled, and a lounge was added on the second floor. But the greens and sweet-potato pie are still standouts, and regulars continue to order the wings and ribs. While diners wait for their food to arrive, they chat with the affable middle-aged hostess, who started working here when she was 18. Some things don’t need a change.