Totale (CLOSED)

An OCD focus on getting the details right is on extreme display at this spare East Village pizzeria. Gregory Ryzhkov, who honed his skills at the late Una Pizza Napoletana, turns out purist specimens with pliant, beautifully bubbled dough. His Margherita DOC is topped with an excellent mix of buffalo mozzarella, sweet crushed San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil and olive oil. The Prosciuotto e Rucola is a gorgeously executed classic, finished out of the oven with a shower of baby arugula and a few ribbons of prosciutto. The most alluring thing about Totale might be its devotion to value—the pies, which start at just $7 apiece, may be New York’s most gently priced.