Uni risotto at Neta
Chefs Nick Kim and Jimmy Lau’s reimagined risotto takes the dish to new heights. They soak glutinous mochi rice in sake, cook it in kombu dashi (Japanese kelp stock) and add sautéed mushrooms (maitake or chanterelles in the summer; matsutake in the fall) for a double hit of umami. Cool, creamy lobes of sea urchin are folded in to give the dish body and a luxuriously smooth texture. When it’s available, Kim and Lau also amp up the creaminess with shirako (cod sperm sacs) or Dungeness crab. 61 W 8th St between Fifth and Sixth Aves (212-505-2610, netanyc.com). $18.—Winnie Yang
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