Tierras Colombianas

Sophia Antonakos, the owner, is as Greek as many of the neighboring restaurateurs in Astoria, but the food at her bright corner storefront is purely Colombian—and purely hearty. Enormous platters of grilled steak and crisp, chewy chicharrón (fried pork cracklings) are piled with rice, plantains, beans, avocados and fluffy arepas; the fisherman’s platter is a mound of garlic-sauced shrimp, squid, calamari and fish. A rotating lineup of soups includes oxtail and beef tripe. Frothy batidos (milk shakes) come in flavors both familiar (mango, papaya) and exotic (guanabana and naranjilla, a.k.a. lulo