The Hurricane Club (CLOSED)

Restaurant nostalgia reaches its breaking point at this Polynesian-themed venue, from the team behind Park Avenue Autumn. While the cavernous AvroKO-designed space evokes colonial splendor, chef Craig Koketsu’s menu channels, instead, the bogus exotica of Trader Vic’s in its heyday. Coconut shrimp are an oily all-American fiction in crisp shredded phyllo, while an entrée of tender filet mignon cubes arrives in a sweet soy mix that bears too striking a resemblance to jarred stir-fry sauce. Still, the regressive fantasy works as kitschy fun, particularly when you’re fueled up on sticky-sweet cocktails from pastry-chef-cum-barkeep Richard Leach.