Richard Kuo—who made a splash with New Nordic pop-up
Frej—goes decidedly non-Scandinavian with this globe-trotting
LES small-plates spot. The inventive chef composes
ama-ebi (spot-prawn
sushi) with smoked lime yogurt and bee pollen; quail accented with pomegranate and chicken skin; and Fernet Branca
ice cream sandwiches. The bar program is equally ambitious, with a 1,000-bottle wine cellar overseen by former
Gilt sommelier Patrick Cappiello, and aperitif-infused
cocktails (sherry with Zucca and egg yolk, stout with Pineau des Charentes), courtesy of mixologist Eben Klemm. Playing up the duality of the restaurant's name, the 62-seat space is decked out with dark subway tiles and light poplar wood, as well as old-timey knickknacks like Kodak cameras and vintage stemware.
220 Bowery between Prince and Spring Sts (212-837-2370)