New York’s consuming passion for improvised Asian street food—driven by
hand-pulled noodles and
fish-sauce chicken wings—gets new kindling with this adaptation of a
joo mak, a Korean roadside tavern, from Hooni Kim (
Danji). The toque, who earned his stripes at
Daniel and
Masa, modernizes the passerby fare of his native country: He braises Seoul bar-food staple
jokbal (pig trotters) and serves them with sliced cabbage, sesame-apple vinegar and fermented shrimp sauce. Skewers—such as garlicky grilled pork belly—constitute a third of the small-plates-based menu, while a smattering of
seafood dishes include a bowl of piquant cod-roe stew.
36 W 26th St between Broadway and Sixth Ave (212-206-7226)