The Cleveland (CLOSED)

It's no secret that haute vegetables are having a moment right now, from tableside carrot tartare at the luxe Eleven Madison Park to an artful sweet-potato-and-buttermilk plate at Blanca out in Bushwick. In this era of exalted produce, chef Ken Corrow has honed his cooking chops in just the right kitchens, including Scandinavian-inspired Acme (where black carrots get their own showcase plate) and locavore haven Anella (which boasts a backyard greenhouse). At this 36-seat diner—kitted out with a zinc-topped bar and red oak floors—the toque spotlights seasonal produce in approachable dishes: Roasted beets are served over Lebanese yogurt with herbs, while butternut squash two ways (roasted, pureed) accompanies roasted chicken. Desserts, like a sweet-potato cake with chocolate mousse, similarly evince a passion for root vegetables. The menu's earthy approach is also reflected in the 14-bottle wine list, highlighting biodynamic and organic bottles.