Photograph: Filip Wolak
Photograph: Filip Wolak

Szechuan: Little Pepper

After seven years on Roosevelt Avenue, Queens’ beloved Xiao La Jiao (or “little pepper”) relocated to a larger space in 2011, sadly moving miles from the subway. Trust that the trek is worth it: Most menu items at this aptly named spot are spiked with the floral red “peppercorns” that are the face-numbing hallmark of the Southwestern Chinese province. It’s difficult to order badly, but newbies should begin with classics like a bowl of the slick dandan noodles ($5.95), topped with crumbles of pork and piquant from a dousing of orange-red chili oil, or the mapo tofu ($7.95), another fiercely red, chili-spiked bowl, teeming with soft bean curd, fermented beans and more minced ground meat. After a pile of the cumin- and chili-covered zhi bao yang rou, or “lamb in hot and spicy sauce” ($14.95), crunchy sautéed lotus root ($7.95) is a nice break for your bee-stung lips—so long as you mind the dried red chili pods that grace the dish. 18-24 College Point Blvd between 18th and 20th Aves, College Point, Queens (718-939-7788)

Ten regional Chinese food restaurants in New York

Explore China’s diverse range of cuisines without leaving NYC at these regional Chinese food restaurants.

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Need help navigating New York City’s Chinese food scene? We trekked through the boroughs, seeking out the best of each province. From Yunnan to Dongbei, get a taste of China’s diverse cuisines at these standout regional Chinese food restaurants.

RECOMMENDED: Complete guide to Chinatown in NYC

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