As Middle Eastern food cognoscenti know, the best Persian food is indeed found in the front corner of Pizza Paradise on 18th Street. The Taste of Persia operation is small but mighty: A few rice pots and chafing dishes are all chef Saeed Pourkay needs to create his ethereal version of ash reshteh. The stew, luxuriously thick and bean-studded, will make you forget about pepperoni pies altogether.
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