Tapeo 29

Keeping tabs on tapas is never easy. One minute you’re splitting a bowl of olives and the next you’re throwing down $80 for a few bites of duck and your share of the wine. Not so at this Clinton Street wine bar. In authentic tapas style, the menu is built for late-night snacking, not overpriced share-plate feasting: small bites include toasted bread topped with freshly chopped tomatoes or a little heap of fresh-from-the fryer calamari. Each item is portioned to keep you moving to the next, but you should double your order of sautéed shrimp: The tender things arrive sizzling in a pool of garlicky olive oil that continues boiling long after it hits the table—and stays hot until you sop up the last drop with crusty bread.