At Jacques Gautier's taqueria—which replaced his shuttered barbecue joint, Fort Reno—find made-to-order corn tortillas stuffed with fillings like duck mole, fried avocado and pork surtido (offal), as well as sopes, huaraches and quesadillas. To drink, sling back a mescal, a tequila or South of the Border brews like Tecate.
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