Sushi Uo (CLOSED)

The surest path to a transcendent sushi experience is to surrender your meal to the maestro slicing the fish. At Japanese speakeasy Sushi Uo, it’s a young American wielding the blade: former Masa toque John Daley. The raw selections are well priced and pristine: The omakase platter (a bargain at $46) featured a beautiful selection of sashimi and sushi, including sweet, fresh-killed octopus, arranged around a mini mackerel that seemed to be caught midswim. More offbeat combinations include an open-faced roll cradling jalapeño and tuna, on a bed of warm crispy rice. The place—paneled in tufted black leather—is tiny, ensuring a long wait for a seat, but food service runs late. Wait out the crowds and have sushi at midnight.