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Sushi by Boū is about as budget-friendly as top-flight omakase can get (12 courses, $50). The latest from David Bouhadana (an affordable sushi pioneer at Sushi Dojo and Sushi on Jones in the past) is a counter tucked below midtown’s Sanctuary Hotel. This is stripped-down sushi at its finest: 12 no-frills pieces eaten in a nonnegotiable 30 minutes. Every two-and-a-half minutes brings a new treat: hokkaido uni, creamy and cold; toro laced with luscious fat; blackened Wagyu melting into charred-edged rice. That work pays off in the form of an unswerving stream of pristine fish (much of it flown in daily from Tokyo’s famed Tsukiji market), like sweet and clean botan shrimp, or bluefin tuna with its already-intense flavor turned up to 11.