Soba-ya

Although known for buckwheat noodles, the menu here is ever-evolving. (“Salted squid guts?” a regular asked. “That’s a new one.”) Vinegary konnyaku, gelatinous arum root and smoky kinpira gobo (burdock root) make exotic beginnings to a meal of one of dozens of soba or udon dishes, served hot or cold in an unbeatable fish-based stock. Vegan options are available as well. Desserts can be pleasantly unorthodox, such as a bowl of vanilla ice cream spiked with wasabi and honey.