The potato chip—that salty snack we’ve all spent many a couchbound day munching—was supposedly born right here in New York State (Saratoga Springs, to be exact). The 19th-century creation—attributed to George Crum of Moon’s Lake House—eventually spread beyond chef-cooked fare to become a by-the-bag snacktime favorite, but now chips (potato and otherwise) are going back to their restaurant roots, popping up in brand-new kitchens around NYC. These days, you can find Dorito-covered carbonara in Bushwick, a whimsical number by Wylie Dufresne and a finespun take from Eleven Madison Park alums.

Pub cheese with Martin’s “potato chips” at Alder
A chip able to withstand the weight of any dip is as rare as a sober Lohan—timid tortillas crack under chunky guac, flimsy Lay’s fall limp against French onion dip. Not so with the hefty chips at Wylie Dufresne’s East Village gastropub. The madcap chef smooshes Martin’s potato rolls through a pasta maker and then bakes them until shatteringly crunchy, pairing the golden-brown “chips” with a creamy smear of port-infused cheddar. The nutty shards stand up to the silky-smooth spread, with chewy crumbles of sweet pistachio-fig brittle adding even more textural contrast with this brainy bar snack. 157 Second Ave between 9th and 10th Sts (212-539-1900, aldernyc.com). $11.
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