Siam Garden (CLOSED)

At a Thai restaurant, sometimes it’s best to look for one dish to gage how the place stacks up against the competition The $12.95 “Drunken Sea,” at Siam Garden is one such dish. Servers bring the food to the table on a sizzling platter whose smoke is redolent with hot chilies. The medley of seafood—shrimp, scallops, squid and mussels—is sautéed with scallions, garlic, onions, Thai basil, lemongrass, lime and fresh chilies. It’s so deliciously spicy that you’ll wnat to use every grain of rice to sop up the sauce.