Shilla (CLOSED)

In this modern, wood-bedecked space, carnivores can sear their own protein with charbroiled standbys like soy-marinated beef short ribs. The extensive menu also abounds with flameless Seoul staples such as an appetizer of eggy scallion pancake studded with squid (don’t bother with the humdrum fried vegetable dumplings). Sushi lovers will gravitate toward an entrée of hwae dup bop, which brims jewel-like slabs of raw salmon and white tuna atop rice and chopped romaine lettuce that you mix altogether with piquant red pepper sauce, while fried chicken devotees shouldn’t miss a main dish of kan pung ki, breaded bites of poultry doused in a chili-inflected sauce. Pace yourself: Main courses can come out before your starters, so eating here can seem like a feeding frenzy.